How much lightener do I need for a balayage?

For a medium-length balayage with 50% coverage, approximately 40g of lightener powder mixed with 80g of developer (1:2 ratio) is typical. Heavier placements or longer hair require proportionally more. Always mix slightly more than you think you will need to avoid running out mid-service.

Do I need foils for balayage?

Traditional balayage is a freehand technique that does not require foils. However, many stylists use foils or plastic film (such as Balayage Board or meche strips) to separate sections, increase heat and speed processing. The choice depends on your technique and the lift required.

How long does balayage processing take?

Balayage typically processes for 30-45 minutes depending on the starting level, desired lift and developer volume used. Check frequently as processing times vary. Open-air techniques process more slowly than foiled sections due to reduced heat.

What developer volume should I use for balayage?

Most balayage work uses 20 vol (6%) or 30 vol (9%) developer. Use 20 vol for more controlled, slower lift and 30 vol for greater lift on resistant or darker hair. Some stylists use 20 vol in foils (where heat increases activity) and 30 vol for open-air sections.

CutCalcs

Balayage Calculator — Lightener & Foil Quantities

Estimate lightener quantities and foil usage for balayage and freehand highlighting techniques.

Hair Length

Coverage Level

Price Per Service (optional)

How We Calculate This

This calculator estimates lightener, developer, foil and toner quantities based on hair length and the desired coverage percentage. Balayage uses a 1:2 lightener-to-developer ratio for a creamy, paintable consistency.

The formula

Lightener powder = Base amount x Coverage multiplier

Developer = Lightener x 2 (1:2 ratio)

Foils = Base foil count x Coverage multiplier

Frequently Asked Questions

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Last updated: February 2026

All calculations are estimates. Always perform a strand test before chemical services.